Septic Systems and Landscaping

Your guide to septic safe plants…

You’ve just installed your new septic system and you’re left with a dirt patch. Or you are tired of the boring green landscape. You want to enhance your curb appeal and keep your yard septic friendly. Here are some tips for septic safe plants and landscaping.

Why Plant On Your Septic System

You may have been scared away from planting on your septic system. And for good reason. Invasive tree roots can wreak havoc on leach fields, but certain plants and landscaping can actually help the efficiency of your system.

Types of Septic Safe Plants

The best septic safe plants for over your system and leach field are short-rooted plants perennials and grasses (including ornamental grass). Grasses and flowers reduce erosion of the soil over your leach field, regulate moisture and can help reduce flooding after heavy rains. And they optimize the exchange of oxygen in the soil needed to filter the last of the bacteria from your wastewater. Their shallow root systems are less likely to invade the underground system and cause damage. Herbaceous (non-woody) ground covers are also a good choice.

Things to consider when deciding what to plant

• If the area is sunny, consider these perennials for sunlit areas

• If the spot does not get much sun, you will probably be happier with these shade-garden plants.

• The soil around leach fields is sometimes wetter than average, sometimes saltier than average, and sometimes both. Cover both bases with perennials such as bee balm, hollyhocks, and wild violets, which tolerate both wet ground and salt.

• Bambi will not turn his nose up at plants growing over septic systems, so if you find yourself keeping similar company as Snow White, you will want to look into deer-resistant perennials and deer resistant ground covers, as well as spring bulbs and ornamental grasses that deer do not eat.

It is not safe to eat food crops grown in the ground around a drain field because eating them might entail ingesting harmful bacteria. Any trees or shrubs that you plant should be planted as far from the your septic system as they are tall. So a tree that reaches 30 feet in maturity will need to be planted at least 30 feet away from your septic system.

If you must grow trees and shrubs, shallow-rooted kinds are better to grow around septic tank drain fields. Shallow-rooted trees and shrubs include:

• Dogwood trees

• Japanese maple trees

• Eastern redbud trees

• Cherry trees

• White Oak

• Azalea shrubs

• Boxwood shrubs

• Holly shrubs

The ideal plant is simple grass, as it take sthe least amount of work and has short roots. If you plant flowers, stick to flowering annual or perennial bulbs with short roots or wildflowers.

If you’re tired of grass try a clover mix (microclover/ecograss/carex pensylvanica dwarf, white clover, carpets (thyme, sedums, low-growing ground covers), shallow, short/soft rooted perennials, and moss)

Try to stick with plants that are native to your area (most of Paradise and Magalia are zones 8 & 9). They will have the best reaction with your climate. For more septic safe trees by zone, check out this link, or consult a local garden center and inform them you are landscaping around a septic system.

The Bad Plants

Deep roots are deadly for a septic system and leach field. They can penetrate and clog pipelines, leach field lines, and the tank itself. Trees and shrubs to generally be avoided include:

• Pussy and Japanese Willow Shrubs

• Aspen Trees

• Poplar Trees

• Birch Trees

• Beech Trees

• Cedar

• Elm Trees

• Maple Trees (except Japanese Maple Trees)

• Sweetgum Trees (Eucalyptus)

• Ash Trees

• Tulip Trees

• Cypress trees

• Walnut trees

• Bamboo

Stay away from plants that require frequent work, the less you are disrupting the soil the better. There is no need to water your plants more than absolutely necessary, or add soil to the area. Always wear gloves when gardening near your septic system.

Surrounding Area Landscaping

While not in direct contact with your septic system, it is important to landscape the rest of your yard accordingly.

• Large trees should be removed from the general area as their roots can spread far and wide. The rule of thumb is to keep all trees at least 100 feet from your home and septic tank.

• Use barriers, natural or man made, to discourage traffic over your system. This especially applies to vehicle parking. Make it obvious! Do not park on your septic tank or drain field.

• Use mulch, flowerbeds, rain gutters and drains to divert excess water from your leach field.

Just because you have a septic system doesn’t mean your yard has to be barren. It doesn’t even have to be just grass. Stay with septic-safe plants to avoid the headache of a damaged system while enjoying your yard and landscaping.

7 Signs and Symptoms of Septic Tank System Problems

When your septic tank system is not operating correctly, you will be able to see telltale signs if you know where to look.

1. Pipe Gurgling Sounds

If you flush the toilet or run the water and hear gurgling coming from the pipes it may be an indication the tank is full, needs pumping or has other problems.

2. Toilet Flushing Issues

When the toilet is slow to flush or won’t flush, and a plunger doesn’t fix the issue it could be something wrong with the septic system. It could be the tank is full, something that’s easily solved by having the tank pumped. It may also be an indication of a clog in the pipes.

3. Slow Drains

3. If the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bathtub are draining slowly, it could point to a problem with the pipes in your home (time to call a plumber) or the septic system (time to call Magneson Tractor Service).

4. Water Backup

If water is backing up when you run the washing machine or worse yet sewage has backed up into the house, it’s time to call for help.  Sewage backups are one of the worse symptoms of a failing septic system.

5. Bad Odors

All you need to tell that something is wrong with the septic tank is a good sense of smell. Keep getting a whiff of rotten eggs in summer? Unless they are leftover from the last Easter Egg hunt, you are likely smelling toxic sulfur.  If you walk outside near where the septic tank is buried and the smell increases it’s possible raw sewage has escaped the tank.

6. Greener Grass

The grass getting greener in one area of the yard is not a result of rain hitting that one location. One of the first signs the septic leach field is failing is the grass is growing faster or greener than the rest of the property. The lawn is enjoying the extra fertilizer at the roots, and this means the septic could be experiencing issues.

7. Patches of Standing Water

When you walk in the yard and see puddles or patches of standing water near the drain field it is a sign something is very wrong with the septic system. The system is failing, so smelly water is accumulating at the drain field, something that can pose a health hazard and must be addressed immediately. At the first sign of puddles near the septic tank, call in the experts!

Causes of Septic Tank Problems

Often septic tank problems are caused by things entering the tank that shouldn’t be by way of the toilet, kitchen sink, or garbage disposal.

The only item that should be flushed down the toilet (in addition to human waste) is septic safe toilet paper.  The kitchen sink should be gray water only avoiding solids and heavy use of the garbage disposal.

Understanding Potential Leach Field Problems

Avoid these common septic tank problems associated with issues near the leach field.

• Never park a car or heavy equipment over the drain field. The excess weight will cause problems such as cracking and buckling that can upset the function of the tank.

• The area above the drain field should be obstruction free. Heavy items or traffic can result in the pipe below becoming compromised. If the pipe becomes compacted and then broken, this can cause damage to your leach field and can be a costly repair to make.

• Sludge overload near the drain field can result in sulfite and bio-mat buildup, both of which require a septic technicians expertise to alleviate before your system backs up.

• When grease is poured down the sink or into toilets, it will eventually cool and harden down the line. Hardened fats can cause capping, the cutting off of all oxygen in the system, and will damage the leach field.

• Never plant any new trees near the septic tank drain field. Roots will eventually seek out moisture underground, and will penetrate the tank, drain field or pipes associated with the septic system. Once the roots reach the source of the moisture, they will grow rapidly and cause significant damage.

To avoid any septic tank problems in the future, call the experts at Magneson Tractor Service to check your system before trouble arises.

Where’s My Septic?

When you know exactly where the septic tank is located on your property, it can make it easier to perform regular maintenance. There is going to come a time when your tank is going to need to be inspected, pumped, and maintained. Ignoring inspections and maintenance and waiting until the system has a visible problem will significantly reduce the lifespan of the entire system in addition to creating a potential health hazard.

3 Ways to Locate Your Septic Tank

Even though septic tanks may be difficult to find buried underground, you can easily locate your septic tank to perform regular maintenance.

#1 Visually Search for The Tank

Over the course of a few years, grass growing in your yard can easily conceal the location of the septic tank to the point the entire yard looks identical.

Start walking slowly around the yard and feel if there are any unexpected low or high spots that could be the indication of a drain field or tank.

Typically, a tank is placed between 10-25 feet from the house. Since most tanks will not be closer than 5 feet, you can start the visual search from there. Grass growing greener or healthier in one isolated area could be that the tank has leaked and is fertilizing that location.

#2 Perform A Records Search

One of the best ways to pinpoint exactly where the septic tank is on your property is to perform a records search.

If you still have a copy of your original home inspection, there may be an attached document called the “as-built.” This diagram will show exactly how far from the house the septic tank was installed. Even though landmarks on the property may have changed, measurements should still give you the ability to find the location.

If you do not have these documents, Paradise Town Hall or Butte County Environmental Health will have the permanent records.

#3 Use Septic Tank Risers

When the septic tank was originally installed in the ground, the company in charge may have included a septic tank riser so their technician can find the tank easily for inspections and maintenance. These risers are installed at ground level, allowing for easier access and less digging to find your tank lid. The septic tank riser is a plastic or concrete pipe that will run vertically from access points or pump-out openings to a few inches above the ground.

Once the tank is located, it is best to call in a septic tank company. Opening the tank yourself is potentially dangerous depending on the condition of the system. There are special tools needed for servicing the tank, and this process is always best left to the experts. Keep a record of the tank location for future reference, so you never have to conduct this search again.

We hope this will also help in locating tanks for those still needing mark outs done for debris clean up. If you need assistance with marking out your property, or its just time for an inspection contact us here or give us a call at 530-961-3171

Busting Septic Myths - One Household At A Time

Welcome to the Internet! The place where messages spread instantly, regardless of their validity. But, this was happening long before the internet by simple word of mouth. With the wealth of information available circulating, it’s hard to distinguish the facts from myths. This is why we’ve decided to set the record straight on just a few common ideas about septic tanks and systems.

Starting With a New Septic Systems Requires Seeding

What’s seeding? Exactly what it sounds like—helping your system and bacteria grow with “seeds” or in this case organic material. And we have heard of everything under the sun: flushing a pound of yeast, manure, worms and more.

This is a myth! Your septic system does not need your help to get started. Just use the system. Your human waste contains enough “seeding” abilities to get it started. Where the truth does shine a light is keeping your system healthy, especially if you tend to use lots of antibacterial or bleach products. This brings us to our next myth.

Additives Keep Old Systems Running Great

You’ve probably heard the claim…. Have an older system or a system that’s running less than efficient?  Just add some additives!

But septic additives working miracles is a myth. Well-balanced septic tanks do not require any help. Many commercially marketed septic products contain corrosive pesticides that will do harm to the bacterial colonies in your system, or turn out to be overpriced yeast (yes, like the stuff used to make bread). If you are having trouble with your system, add some helpful bacteria by putting yogurt, activated yeast, or even some beer down the drain. This is most helpful if your household uses lots of antibacterial and bleach based products —which you shouldn’t, but that’s for another post. These helper bacteria will only help keep a system healthy, so if you’re still having trouble it’s time to bring in a professional for an inspection, pumping, or possible repair.

Pump Your Septic Tank every 5-7 years

An average family can fill a septic tank to operating level in less than a week without altering regular water level use. It’s not needed to pump the septic tank just because it may be full or a certain age. Just let your healthy system do its work. In fact, as long as your tank is sized appropriately to your household and property maintained, your system will be breaking down and processing waste for many years.

However, if a septic tank is full of “sludge” (soil, bones, food particles, etc), solids or is consistently full of liquid that does not drain—it’s time to have your system inspected, pumped or possibly repaired.  You should always have your system inspected prior to scheduling a pumping. A good inspector should not need the tank pumped in most cases and will let you know if your system is healthy or needs to be pumped. There are a few instances when you should avoid pumping your tank, but we’ll talk about these on a future blog post.

Once Installed, Septic Tanks Take Care of Themselves

It’s true! With their biological processes and gravity flows, septic systems and tanks do all the work with little help from you. Being buried makes them easily forgettable. While you may not need to take direct actions, your habits will affect the overall health of your septic system.

You’ll Only Need One Septic System

Septic systems do not last a lifetime. On average, systems last 25-30 years with proper care and maintenance.

If you want longevity from your system, knowing the proper maintenance is priority number one. But, sometimes the water is muddied by septic myths.

Understanding which are true and which are nothing but old tales can be confusing. Have questions about some tips you’ve heard? Call Magneson Tractor Service today—we have your answers. Have a troubling myth you want us to get to the bottom of? Send us a message or leave a comment, and we’ll be happy to separate the poo from the fact!

What is a Septic System?

Poop goes where?

The heart of your septic system — septic tanks (or as my 3 year old says the Poo Tank), break down the waste from your home.  Most of the treatment takes place in the septic tank through naturally occurring organic processes, but the work doesn’t stop there.  Septic systems are a combination of pipes, a tank, bacteria and a leach field that work together to treat solid and liquid waste before releasing it safely into the ground. So…

How Does a Septic System Work?

Septic systems are underground wastewater treatment structures, commonly used in rural areas without centralized sewer systems. A typical septic system consists of a septic tank and a leach field.

The septic tank digests organic matter and separates float-able matter and solids from the wastewater. As the levels in the tank rise, the system discharges the liquid (known as effluent) from the septic tank into a series of perforated pipes buried in a leach field, chambers, or other special units designed to slowly release the effluent into the soil.

A standard septic system uses gravity to work its magic. Alternative systems need a little help and use pumps to help the septic tank effluent trickle through sand, organic matter (peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants like disease-causing pathogens, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Proven technologies mix with nature and biological processes to remove the wastewater from your home or business before releasing the treated wastewater into the soil.  But the process only works if it has properly working components. That brings us to…

Photo Source: epa.gov

What Makes Up A Septic System?

There are two main components:

1. Septic Tank

2. Leach Field

1. Septic Tank

The septic tank is a watertight box, usually made of concrete or fiberglass, with an inlet and outlet pipe. Wastewater flows from the home to the septic tank through the inlet pipe. The septic tank treats the wastewater naturally by holding it in the tank long enough for solids and liquids to separate. The wastewater forms three layers inside the tank.

• Solids lighter than water (such as greases and oils) float to the top forming a layer of scum.

• Solids heavier than water settle at the bottom of the tank forming a layer of sludge.

• This leaves a middle layer of partially clarified wastewater.

The layers of sludge and scum remain in the septic tank where bacteria found naturally in the wastewater work to break the solids down. These bacteria are so efficient and resilient, healthy and happy bacteria decomposes up to 50% of the waste in septic tanks. The sludge and scum that cannot be broken down are retained in the tank until the tank is pumped. The layer of clarified liquid flows from the septic tank to the leach field or to a distribution device, which helps to uniformly distribute the wastewater in the leach field.

2. Leach Field

Every time new wastewater enters the septic tank, wastewater also exits the tank into the leach field.  The leach field is a shallow, covered excavated area at the exit of the septic tank.  It is important to note, unsaturated areas are the only suitable place for a leach field.

If the leach field becomes overloaded with an excess of wastewater or flooded with rainwater, the leach field can no longer effectively operate and treat wastewater.  Additionally, excess water causes effluent to flow to the ground surface, creating backups in the system.

Each state and local government requires different specifications when it comes to leach fields.  In Butte County, the Environmental Health department will dictate system size and type depending on property location and soil testing. Some areas will require minimum distances from water retention areas, water wells, and high water table locations. Your Septic contractor should work with local ordinances to ensure your property is in compliance with current regulations.

How Do You Take Care of Your Septic System?

Wondering how to take care of your septic system?  Maintenance and treating your septic system right with inspections, efficient water use, “do not flush” rules, and maintaining the area surrounding the leach field.

• Inspections and Pumping.  With natural processes easily interrupted, septic tanks are fragile, however with a healthy bacteria they can go many years without issue.  Have a professional inspect your septic system at least once every 5 to 7 years. There is no requirement on frequency of pumping, and if your system is healthy and appropriately sized, it may never need to be pumped.

• Follow “Do Not Flush Rules”.  Your toilet and garbage disposals are not trashcans – treat them accordingly.  Flush only toilet paper, avoiding “flushable” wipes.  Afraid of guests during the holidays messing up the system?  Put up some friendly reminders.

• Maintain the Leach Field.  Keep tree roots away from the leach field pipes.  Divert rainwater and runoff from saturating the area, and landscape with septic friendly plants.

• Avoid Strong Chemicals.  Start looking for alternative cleaning products and detergents while avoiding products containing chlorine bleach.

• Find A Septic Contractor and Inspector You Trust.  Having a professional whose opinion matters goes a long way.  They can help schedule maintenance and inspections while putting your mind at ease.

Septic systems are designed to function efficiently for the onsite treatment of wastewater as long as all the components are working correctly and together.  If your septic system isn’t working at its best call Magneson Tractor Service for an inspection at 530-961-3171 or send us a message.